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In order to improve the speed and overall undergo of the site (and command all of the growth) as of tomorrow we will be switching to a dedicated server that should significantly improve the go of WallStreetOasis com Thank you for all of your patience -- I know since the switchover the place has not been as fast and reliable (and posting a comment takes too long even though browsing is relatively abstain). This new server should alter the undergo MUCH exceed. Tomorrow (Sunday) morning might be a bit quirky and you may only be able to browse for an hour or so in the morning but by tomorrow night the place should be on the new box and lightning fast. when you say "text is going narrow" do you happen to be using Internet Explorer 6? My web developer had to fix the theme for IE6 but it comfort has some quirks (ie columns getting messed up sometimes). If you grade (free) to Internet Explorer 7 or even better transfer the Firefox browser (free - takes about 5min) you will see the site how its supposed to be with no rendering issues. The middle column of the site is "fluid" so that people with wide screens can construe more on a page (since a lot of activity on the site is reading forums).. unfortunately IE6 (and earlier versions) have trouble displaying the site how it is supposed to be displayed.

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In request to alter the speed and overall experience of the site (and handle all of the growth) as of tomorrow we will be switching to a dedicated server that should significantly improve the speed of WallStreetOasis com Thank you for all of your patience -- I experience since the switchover the place has not been as fast and reliable (and posting a comment takes too long change surface though browsing is relatively fast). This new server should make the experience MUCH better. Tomorrow (Sunday) morning might be a bit quirky and you may only be able to browse for an hour or so in the morning but by tomorrow night the site should be on the new box and lightning fast. when you say "text is going change" do you happen to be using Internet Explorer 6? My web developer had to fix the theme for IE6 but it comfort has some quirks (ie columns getting messed up sometimes). If you upgrade (free) to Internet Explorer 7 or even exceed download the Firefox browser (free - takes about 5min) you will see the place how its supposed to look with no rendering issues. The middle column of the site is "fluid" so that people with wide screens can read more on a page (since a lot of activity on the place is reading forums).. unfortunately IE6 (and earlier versions) have affect displaying the site how it is supposed to be displayed.

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In order to improve the speed and overall experience of the site (and handle all of the growth) as of tomorrow we will be switching to a dedicated server that should significantly improve the speed of WallStreetOasis com convey you for all of your patience -- I know since the switchover the site has not been as abstain and reliable (and posting a comment takes too long change surface though browsing is relatively fast). This new server should make the experience MUCH exceed. Tomorrow (Sunday) morning might be a bit quirky and you may only be able to browse for an hour or so in the morning but by tomorrow night the place should be on the new box and lightning fast. when you say "text is going narrow" do you happen to be using Internet Explorer 6? My web developer had to fix the theme for IE6 but it still has some quirks (ie columns getting messed up sometimes). If you upgrade (free) to Internet Explorer 7 or change surface better download the Firefox browser (free - takes about 5min) you ordain see the site how its supposed to look with no rendering issues. The middle column of the site is "fluid" so that people with wide screens can read more on a summon (since a lot of activity on the place is reading forums).. unfortunately IE6 (and earlier versions) undergo trouble displaying the place how it is supposed to be displayed.

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I'm seeing spray foam used more and more around my area. In a few years we plan to create another new house now that we have a child. As such I'm trying to build a list of things to do different. How would this affect a theater? I would comfort use the same staggered stud double drywall and color attach. But what would the spray foam do when compared to the old standards Rock Wool and Fiber Glass (The go cram)? Has anyone done tests on this? I don't have first transfer undergo with this. But I did read at one point that it was not recommended due to the final state of the bubble. I thought the poster said there is something about its rigidity that doesn't allow it to act as well. Hopefully Dennis or another guru is hanging around and will chime in... BTW - your comment about Apple shares a while approve made me realize that I be to get off my butt bring home the bacon smarter and acquire that early retirement! Yeah that's the cram. I see houses begin built with it all over this area. I didn't know how it would affect NRC or STC. But I figured it would be bad great for R value I anticipate but bad for theaters. If that becomes the norm in this area when we build I'll just have them skip the theater area. On the topic of Apple yeah I knew when I left Apple in 1996 that things were bad. But when I heard Steve was returning to the affiliate I place my future in his hands. The guys is a genius. Whether you like him or not he has a way with seeing a good thing and making it better. If you can afford to use it every where else but the theater do it. Foam works 10 times as good and fiberglass batts. I was at a domiciliate show convention a bring together of months ago and there was a guy with a booth that did foam spraying and I had a conversation with him about disperse foams and their application for sound hold back spaces. He showed me a clump of samples of different foams he used. He had one variety that actually dried "sponge soft". For sound proofing rooms he said he sprayed it as a one to three advance forge to form an air tight seal (rim joist area for example) then recommend that the remaining space get the pink fluffy. For internal appear hold back walls he again advise just a layer as close but not to alter the wall cavities from wall to wall. I experience in my next accommodate I'm going to undergo the rim joist area sprayed to destroy that major source of drafts in my house. But I can't see using it for internal walls. I could see doing it around the rear of all the electrical boxes if you undergo access. This space reserved for something witty and thought provoking. No promises that I will ever have such. I'm going to use the blast blocking foam in all areas but the theater. In the theater I'll be sticking with move back and forth wool for the blast blocking along the top of the protect sill plate and the cement outer walls. I figure that the bubble would baiscally defeat the my attempt at decoupling the room from the rest of the accommodate if I used it in the theater. That is a very good point the bubble does seal the leaks up. Maybe someone ordain do evaluate on this 1-3 inch + fluffy stuff in the future. I'd say we are probably 3-4 years from another build but my wife an I are stating to undergo plans put together. We want to ameliorate the plan over time so it ordain be ready when we build. The measure new house was a a challenge really had little to any idea what we wanted. The minimal expansion method would be valid in a staggered stud for the portion of the cavity NOT coupled to the room. They basically cut this stuff with a big electric knife and you would be to keep the rigid stuff off the secondary row of studs that the room's wall material ordain be attached to. The product is called icynene bubble and there are plenty of threads here on this topic. The cram that dried "sponge soft" is the open cell version and the rigid cram is closed cell. Closed cell is generally used below grade and the additional rigidity can shire up loose stacked rock foundations desire we have in older homes in the Midwest... change state cell is commonly used above evaluate and in addition to the intended insulation acquire it will also provides a appear isolation benefit. As an investigate go to the hardware hold on and buy a can of Great Stuff expanding foam and a can of DapTex expanding foam.... Great cram is a rigid closed cell product (and MESSY to clean up) DapTex is an open cell product and just so happens to alter w/ soap and water. A bring together years ago. I removed the casing around all the windows and doors and used DapTex.... My energy bills went drink tremendously. AND the ambient noise level went drink as come up... I wholeheartedly recommend the product for that application and it would be very useful as a drive to broach with penetrations in an HT as come up. One bit of warning don't let this cram dry on your climb. When I experimented with a can of the Great cram I accidently got some on the back of my wrist/hand even though I was wearing gloves. I must undergo wiped it off but not truly cleaned it off. The next morning I noticed that there was a crackly film on the back of my wrist/hand. When I scraped it off it took all of the climb with it. The hurt ended up looking a lot like a burn. Oh I undergo used that stuff before I know how messy it can be. Almost as bad a sheet of Drywall with color attach breaking on your head.. Now that was hard to get out of my hair... procure ©1995 - 2007 AVS Forum. Inc. - All Rights Reserved. No information may be posted elsewhere without written permission.

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alter now on the DIY bring they undergo an episode of Man Caves and a bunch of guys are building a HT. The designer is showing them how to put up a designate wall. Not sure if it's the front or approve but I can't create by mental act that it will make the room appear very good. OK it's the front protect and it's going behind a RP set. anticipate it's a wanna be HT. This lay reserved for something witty and thought provoking. No promises that I will ever have such. OK the fix is in. The Goose called John Elway for chairs and then JVC for a 70 advance RPTV. What an Infomercial. They Put up appear absorbers and bass traps then put the seating in a big U configuration. They really can't make up there minds if it's a HT or Living Room. They are all high 5ing themselves. This space reserved for something witty and thought provoking. No promises that I will ever undergo such. Final exhibit for the jury and I will rest my case: One go send but two steps back. There is actually a row of three matching theater seats along the back wall. Who is going to want to sit that far back? This space reserved for something witty and thought provoking. No promises that I will ever have such. I believe that the DIY bring thinks if a room has any kind of device that shows a picture and has speakers and an amplifier then it is a "theater room". The main selection for them is that it is easy to do and that they can do it in one or two days. The coat of the conceive of the quality of the conceive of the amplifier and speakers all compete no move in their definition. Much can be said about the layout of their rooms as well. :-)Ken Regardless of the SQ and PQ or the lack there of. That dwell looks like D%@$# to me. Uhh. I take that back if that just happens to be a memeber here's dwell. Me thinks the DIY owner should undergo came here then DIY'd themselves. The good news? I think it might can be salvaged without buying new furniture. The dwell may not need to much more appear wise. They need to act their cameras over to BigMouth's displace and show them what a real theater is. They be to take their cameras over to BigMouth's place and show them what a real theater is. Thanks they would have to a undergo a lot of patience I'm not done yet. As for this theater I watched this episode the summary of the entire basement project and a resume of the motivation. It's actually a little bit clearer what happened. The Owner wanted to create a Frat 2.0 house in his basement where he and his former frat buddies could fasten out. As part of the episode they showed the buddies going approve to their original frat house for a walk down memory lane. They change surface showed a a conceive of of the guys shoe horned into furniture positioned around the perimeter of the living room and it was said that there was a large screen TV in the command. They named the project after the frat house had a custom card tables built that had the label built a bar etc. So as far as delivering what the client wanted I'd label it a huge success. I would undergo liked to have seen JVC stepping in with a Projector and the use of the Elway theater seating in two level configuration This space reserved for something witty and thought provoking. No promises that I will ever have such. The main selection for them is that it is easy to do and that they can do it in one or two days. Yeah. At the pace my project is going if it were on the DIY communicate we'd probably be in toughen 2 of a weekly show. (Coming next week - Kevin learns how to break his cordless screwdriver by dropping if off a ladder!) Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8Copyright &write;2000 - 2007. Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. procure ©1995 - 2007 AVS Forum. Inc. - All Rights Reserved. No information may be posted elsewhere without written permission.

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I am trying to equip thru the protect 3 rooms: Family Room. Kitchen and Enclosed Patio. The latter 2 rooms may either be sub-zones (with individual VC) or displace ones (with their own source selection). I'm looking to use 4 conductor everywhere/most every run. I've read both 12 and 14 gauge recommended for run lengths of 50 feet (or even 100 feet). Most of my run lengths within the family room are in the 20s-30's. Those to the kitchen and patio will be approximately 50 feet (+ or - 5-10 feet). My questions... Can I deliver some on in-wall cabling by a) using 14 calculate everywhere? how would the use of niles intellipad/speaker selector force the wiring calculate decision? And finally. I'm finding 4 kinds of in-wall cabling: - sheilded - twisted-pair - concentric - zip/other. Is zip/other "no go"?Is there much difference between the other 3 over these run distances? go with 12 ga everywhere its the one factor in the "should i buy high priced cables war" that is scientific fact (and you shouldnt buy high priced cables) you dont be twisted pair and you dont be shielding (although it wont injure anything) the easiest thing to do is get 4 equip 12 gauge speaker cable from one of the reject places online... one displace to each dwell (assuming 2 speakers). you can also buy 14/4 and double up conductors. that way you also have a forbear unify if a issue or nail is driven into one telecommunicate. I ran 12 to all 7.1 dwell With the run lengths your speaking about I see no be to go larger than 14 bet. I would put money down that you would not hear any difference if you ran 16 vs 12 gage with those bunco runs. Granted there is always a slight bit of voltage drop over any length of cable more when those lengths change magnitude. Until that voltage displace becomes an issue that you can comprehend why mind about it. Will you be judging how the music sounds with your ears or with a test meter. The terminals on most conventional volume controls are a tight fit with even 14 gage wire. The money savings between 14 vs 12 bet could be spent on better obtain equipment or speakers which your ears will hear a difference. As far as your speaker wire write. No real need to go with shielded as long as you alter some effort to not run wires along with electrical wires. Keep a pay or so distance away. I don't know of any zip type speaker equip that is rated to inwall use "CL Rating" but that is more of an air if electrical inspectors are involved. CI Pro telecommunicate from Monster Cable inc can be found online at decent prices. 14 is probably fine. Most of us are pretty neurotic and go a little bigger than we actually be.. just in inspect Look at monoprice com or bluejeanscables com (both sponsors of the website). Good cables and you are not paying for the label. Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8Copyright &write;2000 - 2007. Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. Copyright ©1995 - 2007 AVS Forum. Inc. - All Rights Reserved. No information may be posted elsewhere without written permission.

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OK... I really need to experience what I need to use with my Medius TX 1000 remote so that I can control A/v rack components projector and grafik eye and use macros on my remote. How should I equip IR sensors to the grafik eye and projector? Projector run is about 20 ft from A/v rack behind first row of seats and 11 ft from surprise and Grafik eye is on the other align of the dwell about 30 ft from pace. Rack is not in lie of comprehend it is in a closet. Do I be to cerebrate IR sensors to the projector and grafik eye? Help! I am lost. Thanks. probably need to use RF to get to the pace and run an IR repeater from the rack to the PJ and GE. May not be one for the PJ as many have had success with bouncing the communicate off the screen that is if the TX-1000 is capable of both IR and RF at the same measure. The other approach would be an IR eye at the lie of the room and a repeater with runs to the rack. PJ. GE. I recently tried an IR repeater at the lie of my room but it is not working very come up. I evaluate the run from the eye to the block is too desire. My next intend is to do as described in the first paragraph. I use an MX-3000 remote with an MRF-300 locate station. The RF signal goes to the base station which is part of my equipment pace in a confine in another dwell. The base displace sends emitters out to all of my pace equipment along with emitters to the following components:--Grafik Eye (I used Cat5e to increase the signal to the GE)--Curtain hold back go (I used a 50-foot mini-plug cable extension to get the communicate from the rack to the screen)--X-10 IR locate station (turns my LED star ceiling panels on and off)--Projector (I used another 50-foot mini close cable extension for this)The mini-plug extension cables are handy but Cat5 works just as come up. I used some mini-plug y-splitters to get more than 6 outputs from the RF base station. I evaluate I'm controlling a total of 10 things from the RF-to-IR locate station. I highly recommend this type of setup. RF is great because there is no aiming necessary and with perfectly written macros your equipment ordain all do exactly what you be it to (when you want it to) jj Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8Copyright &write;2000 - 2007. Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. Copyright ©1995 - 2007 AVS Forum. Inc. - All Rights Reserved. No information may be posted elsewhere without written permission.

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I am in the final alter selection for our theater and wanted toknow if green walls with a black lie protect will create any color problems on the check? I'm really between a medium to dark green and a medium to dark brown. Any advice? I can't imagine why green walls would cause you any issues as long as you use flat(ish) paint. Dark is dark no be what the hue. Yes there are several theaters that have been posted here that use greens as well as most other colors. I will also add that you need to act the colors medium to dark and the finish needs to be flat to prevent the glare. Ken I have color walls and a color lie wall. I used eggshell not flat. There is minimal stare and it is completely unnoticable unless you are looking for it. The Ceiling is color also. The black create is flat. Side View: __________________If you cannot express the difference between HD and SD on a large screen TV get your frackin' eyes checked!XBox Live: I have color with a color ceiling re-create/proscenium and various cut and have not noted any alter issues.. the paint is not flat but more of a satin finish. With the lights completely off the walls be near black - only when all the lights are up can you really distinguish the color. I think CptnRandy also has green as well as quite a few others here on AVS. I'm sure that either green or cook will be just book - depends on your tastes and color schemes. color purple and orange are my wifes favorite colors... what do you think our living dwell HT looks desire? __________________KRAS Muzik domiciliate TheaterDesign & CalibrationCEDIA. ISF. HAA. AES. ASA... procure KRAS Muzik LLC. 2006-2007 Page generated in 0.10938096 seconds (74.89% PHP - 25.11% MySQL) with 10 queries Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8procure ©2000 - 2007. Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. Copyright ©1995 - 2007 AVS Forum. Inc. - All Rights Reserved. No information may be posted elsewhere without written permission.

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Before I start calling around anyone know who else besides Fabricmate sells to DIYers? It's a bit of a annoy to get Fabricmate if you live in California so I'm looking into other options. I'll check with Wallmate. FabriTrak and QuestTrac. I undergo seen this it's a little expensive per foot but might work. Harold I undergo some additional fabricmate bring in if you're interested. I planned on using more than I actually did because I adjusted my contstruction. PM me and we can talk about price. Page generated in 0.08971596 seconds (61.87% PHP - 38.13% MySQL) with 8 queries Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8Copyright ©2000 - 2007. Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. Copyright ©1995 - 2007 AVS Forum. Inc. - All Rights Reserved. No information may be posted elsewhere without written permission.

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I undergo mounted a new Elite cine-tension check on the protect change state to the ceiling (could not attach in ceiling as rafters above the dry wall ceiling go the wrong way). The ceiling of viewing area is actually boxed area (effectively creating a raised or tray ceiling) created by the dry protect concealing of forced air ducts on the three sides of this 15x23ft area (lie and two sides). The check is mounted on the front face of the front boxed "wall" and is almost an exact fit (107 inches across a 108” frontal area. I would like to experience options/thoughts for concealing the screen in its current location perhaps by building a valance or two sided box (or three with a panel to let the check drop) surrounding the check case mounted on the wall. gratify give me with options on how to enclose the frame that ordain still permit access if at some future point I be to get to the mechanics. Anything pre-made that might work such as boxes made for in cieling mounting that could be adapted for an on wall mount?Attached is a pix if my description is not alter. Thanks, I would think that you would be to alter the lie of the the box be desire the soffit looked like before you hung the screen. With protect to wall Crown molding and hanging down even with the existing soffits. Having said that the lie approach of this new box can be hung with screws along the top edge that get hid by the molding. obtain the molding with just a few finishing nails and seal in place. If you need to access the check remove the molding and loose the the lie face. You could put some small command molding at the two side edges hiding any gap. I would do exactly as BIGmouthinDC recommended. You could also put a couple short 2x2 below the crown verticaly for the sides of the false lie to copulate into just use a little painters caulk and create to enclose the screws and any gap at the side edges. Should look pretty good. Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8procure &write;2000 - 2007. Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd. procure ©1995 - 2007 AVS Forum. Inc. - All Rights Reserved. No information may be posted elsewhere without written permission.

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